We stayed in a cozy little attic on lively rue Montorgueil, just where it runs into Les Halles by the église Saint-Eustache (yay church bells!).

Our apartment was tucked up five flights in one of the historic buildings lining the pedestrian market street, and like our last apartment, this too had steep spiral stairs and no elevator. It seems we enjoy torturing ourselves.
What it lacked in terms of space and accessibility, it made for in natural light and charm. The apartment was incredibly bright; ample windows and skylights drown the space in so much light, it felt as if we were living in the sky.

Once you’ve schlepped all the way up those winding stairs, there’s yet another set of stairs (I guess that makes it 6 flights!) inside the suite that takes you up to this cozy hidden gem with all the comforts you’d need for a few weeks’ stay.

The chaos and noise from the crowded streets dissipate when you’re upstairs. My favourite time at the apartment were mornings; watching the sunrise and making breakfast with all the delicious things we grabbed from the wonderful bakeries, cafés, restaurants and shops downstairs.

A neighbour from a few floors down, a grumpy old Eurosceptic French man, who pretty much hates everything, but was incredibly kind to us, joined us for breakfast one morning, bringing with him buttery croissants from Stroher. We drank milky coffee with our croissants and listened to him talk about what Paris was like back in the le bon vieux temps (good old days).

We met him the morning we arrived, when he stoically insisted on helping us lug our luggage upstairs. I’d want to stay there again next time just so I can hang out with him.

We couldn’t have stayed in a more excellent neighbourhood!

While the apartment’s unique location offered a relaxed and tranquil space away from the busy streets downstairs, we were undoubtedly in the heart of Paris with access to some of the best gastronomy, culture, shopping, etc the city had to offer.

One other positive thing that came out of staying on Montorgueil is that I now know how to navigate the maze that is Les Halles (currently undergoing massive renovation). Prior to this stay, Le Halles was one of the areas I dreaded passing through; which was unavoidable when you’re staying in le Marais. It was such a confusing place to navigate, I always got lost there.

After we’d spent our day wandering the streets, eating delightful pastries and visiting parks and museums, we loved coming back to our cozy flat pretending we lived in Paris.